Hi! I’m Heather and I write from Cusco.
I am a travel writer with a deep love for South America and expertise in Peru and Patagonia.
I am reliable and easy to work with. I meet deadlines, make word count, and can provide quality original photos for all of the destinations that I’ve visited.
What makes my writing so original is my curiosity, willingness to talk to anybody and fluency in Spanish, Portuguese, and French. I love interviewing the corner shop owner just as much as the archeologist.
Comment from an editor at Fodor’s:
“Kudos: I think you have done a commendable job tackling an extremely complicated subject, worked with an open mind about the feedback, and juggled your personal connection and contacts with as unbiased an account as you can. Topics such as this are never straightforward, and I appreciate your collaboration and professionalism. Well done!”
ArsTechnica
Scientists get dung beetles to collect DNA
I worked with a team of researchers at the Manu Biological Station in southern Peru to learn about their study that collects DNA from dung beetles. They are using the DNA to create a database of family trees for dozens of rainforest animals.
BBC Travel
A one-of-a-kind route to Antarctica
I spent a week interviewing Antonio de la Rosa in Puerto Williams, Chile and watching him prepare for his expedition rowing alone to Antarctica. He never made it to Antarctica, but the story of what he survived is a modern version of Shackleton’s 1914 failed Antarctic expedition.
Fodor’s Travel
Who are the Alpaca Ladies of Cusco, Peru?
My interviews with women who pose for tourists’ photos, often with baby alpaca and lambs, exposed how poorly they are treated by city officials. Beloved by most Cusco visitors, they face harassment and confiscation of their pets by city security guards.
The Long Now
This piece takes a long look at the vicuña’s importance for Andean cultures, from the pre-Inca Wari civilization to modern Quechua-speaking Peruvians. I interviewed four Peruvian experts who work closely with vicuña: a veterinarian, a tour leader, a biologist, and a national park director. They shared their fears for the threats the vicuña still faces and their hopes for how this wild camelid can be protected from humans, disease, and climate change,
Matador Network
The Top 15 Inca Sites in and Near Cusco That Are Not Machu Picchu
I don’t often do listicles, but when I do, I make them original with expert interviews. Based on interviews with Cusco archeologist René Pilco Vargas, this list of Inca archeological sites brings together expert knowledge and practical advice for tourists.
Flashpack Solo
Inside the all-female Chicas de Alturas climbing group of Cusco, Peru
I interviewed Peruvian and expat women who formed a group to climb together and to encourage other women to try climbing and mountaineering. These trail blazers are paving the way for new generations and working hard to teach climbing to girls and young women.
Fodor’s Travel
Chile’s Indigenous Selk’nam Fight for Recognition
This piece focuses more on history and culture than place. I interviewed Selk’nam elders and researched the historical erasure of their people. It’s one of the most critical pieces I’ve written.
Wander With Wonder
El Chaltén: Spectacular and Accessible Hiking in Patagonia
El Chaltén is my favorite place to hike in Patagonia. This is one of my first articles about Argentina.
Matador Network
Tips for Traveling with Bipolar Disorder
Many people with mental health diagnoses are discouraged from travel. This article gives eight tips for how to manage mental health while traveling.
Fodor’s Travel
Here’s One Trip You Should Never Use a Travel Agency for
This story started out about the residents who host homestays on Amantaní Island, Lake Titicaca. My interviews with several families revealed a deeper story about how travel agencies take advantage of them and how they prefer that independent travelers book directly with families.