Cicciolina Restaurant
This is my favorite restaurant in Cusco for tapas and quality haute cuisine.
The restaurant’s name and many of the dishes are certainly Italian, but Cicciolina has its own special fusion of Peruvian and pan-Mediterranean flavors. The owners are a Peruvian-Australian couple and the chef, Luis Alberto Sacilotto, is from Argentina of Lebanese and Italian parents. Almost everybody else in the restaurant is from Cusco, with the exception of a talented sous chef from Lima.
Cicciolina has both an elegant dining room with white table cloths and a more relaxed bar, with a view of the kitchen. There are two outdoor spaces, one with white table cloths and the other similar to the bar. Both have views of the inner courtyard and the San Blas neighborhood on the hill above the historic center. From the tables closest the bathroom there is also a view of Sacsayhuaman and the Cristo Blanco statue.
On the tapas menu, most of the options are Spanish with Peruvian touches. There are also flavors as diverse as mango chutney and wasabi, and Mediterranean touches like hummus.
The main dishes mostly look Italian on the surface, though there are heavy French and Peruvian influences. The risotto, ossobuco, spaghetti, beef and chicken dishes are all quite Italian. Other dishes appear Italian on the surface, like the gnocchi, though it is made with a particular Peruvian yellow potato that you won’t find anywhere else in the world. The alpaca and cuy are about as Peruvian as it gets. The duck and tagliatelli may seem Italian but have strong Peruvian influences.
The tapas (above) are what I really come for, but the main courses (below) are also fantastic.
This is one of the few places in Cusco where I recommend reserving a table for dinner at least two weeks in advance. If you’re coming for tapas at the bar, you probably don’t need a reservation.
The service at Cicciolina is excellent, which I really appreciate considering how unreliable service is in most restaurants in Cusco.
Antigua Casona de Cusco
Cicciolina moved across the street during the pandemic and the new space is in one of the most historic casonas in Cusco. Glass panels protect original frescoes from the colonial period and in the bar a glass floor shows off some of the original adobe floor.
View of Hatunrumiyoc
One of my favorite things about the bar is the window that looks down on Calle Hatunrumiyoc, where you can watch people pose for photos in front of the famous 12 Angle Stone.
View towards the Plaza de Armas
The same balcony in the bar that gives you a view of Hatunrumiyoc also has a view of Calle Triunfo that leads to Cusco’s Plaza de Armas. It’s the prefect spot for a drink and some tapas.
