Complete Guide to Cusco
To get this shot of the cathedral bell towers, stand on the top of the wall next to the fountain in the Plazoleta Tricentenario.
The Complete Cusco Guide
All my insider tips from living in Cusco since 2019
I’ve written so much about Cusco since I moved here in 2019 that I realized today I should put it all in one place.
Here’s everything you need to know about Cusco: what to do, where to go, where to eat, where to stay and dozens of travel tips on everything that I’ve learned living here.
There are flights going back and forth between Cusco and Lima every 15 minutes from 5am to midnight.
How to get to Cusco?
Most people fly here and will need my Cusco airport blog & tips. You can also take the bus here though and most people who do that usually come from Lima, Arequipa or Puno. I’ve taken the bus from Arequipa and Puna but never from Lima. My stomach doesn’t handle twisty mountain roads well and if you get motion sickness, I recommend you fly.
I lost track of how many times I’ve been to the Qorikancha in 2022 and will definitely go back again countless times.
What to do in Cusco?
The first place everybody should go in Cusco is the Qorikancha – here’s why. Almost everywhere tourists go after the Qorikancha is covered in the boleto turístico del Cusco, the “Cusco tourist ticket.” There are several options explained in the blog that include Cusco’s archeological sites.
Lots of people come here to acclimatize for a few days before doing a multi-day trek and camping. Here’s my favorite day hikes in Cusco, which will help you acclimate to the altitude in preparation for treks like Choquequirao, Quarry,Ausangate, Lares, Salkantay, Huchuy Qosqo and more.
Cusco is not just high altitude, it’s steep. There are stairs everywhere, including up to San Cristobal Church and, above that is Sacsayhuamán (pronounced sack-sigh-wah-mon).
How to deal with the altitude in Cusco?
Cusco is at about 11,000 feet above sea level (3,500m). It’s a bit lower near the airport and a bit higher at San Cristobal (above). Take it easy the first couple days, especially if you’re coming directly from lower altitude. Walk slowly, drink lots of water and eat small meals or snacks frequently. Get plenty of sleep and minimize alcohol intake.
Many people will tell you to drink coca leaf tea to prevent altitude sickness, but I find that a combination if ibuprofen and caffeine work better. A couple coca leaves floating in a cup of hot water is 50% placebo effect and 50% hydration. If you want that caffeine in the form of delicious local coffee, check out Café d’Wasi and Xapiri Ground. Chewing coca leaves can be a pain reliever but you need to chew a handful, not just a few leaves, and it’s a slow effect.
All four sides of the Plaza de Armas have great hotels, many with Inca foundations and Spanish colonial architecture on top.
Where to stay & eat in Cusco?
My favorite hotels in Cusco (and the rest of Peru) are on this page of hotels and tour companies in Peru. In general, I recommend staying in the historic center, within a few blocks of the Plaza de Armas, because that’s where everything interesting is: restaurants, museums, cafés, churches and Cusco’s unique blend of Inca and Spanish architecture. It’s also where you’ll find cultural celebrations like Corpus Christi, Taytacha (before Easter) and Santurantikuy (before Christmas).
Taxis are plentiful. I never bother to call one or use Uber in Cusco because there are so many taxis, official and unofficial.
What else do you need to know about Cusco?
Here’s more Cusco travel tips that I complied for all sorts of things you need to know about the city.
Cusco is so pretty it’s easy to be a good photographer. Everything is so photogenic.
Published articles about Cusco
I’ve written a lot about Cusco for a variety of publications. Here are my favorite articles:
Headed to Machu Picchu? Don’t Skip Cusco, published by Shermans Travel
How to Visit Cusco, published by Low Season Traveller
Guide to Cusco, published by Going
Inti Raymi, Cusco’s Biggest Celebration, published by Resonate
New Ways of Visiting Cusco, published by Globetrotting
Top 15 Inca Sites In & Near Cusco Besides Machu Picchu, published by Matador Network
What it’s Like Living in Cusco as an Expat, published by Insider
Still have questions about Cusco?
Download my travel guide app, drop them in comments below or ask me.
This is an alley called 7 Culebras between Plazoleta Nazarenas and Calle Choquechaka. It always has the best indirect light for portraits.